The wine region that started with sparkling wines and lives on in its tradition: Bairrada

The history of Bairrada wine is very old and was, like many other regions in Portugal, devastated by the phylloxera plague. However, Bairrada was one of the first regions in Portugal to recover from the plague, thanks to the use of grafts of American vines resistant to phylloxera. The Bairrada region is located in the central part of the country, between the Mondego and Vouga rivers. 

It is believed that viticulture in Bairrada was introduced by the Romans during the occupation of the Iberian Peninsula. However, it was during the Middle Ages that wine production in the region began to gain prominence. 

In the 19th Century, the Bairrada region underwent a significant transformation, but it was at the beginning of the 20th Century that this region started gaining a reputation for the production of sparkling wines, influenced by the success of sparkling wines from the Champagne region in France. The Baga grape variety, native to the region, played a key role in the production of quality red and sparkling wines, with its unique profile and tannic structure. 

For decades, Bairrada was known mainly for its red and sparkling wines, but in recent decades the production of white wines has also gained prominence in the region. Native grape varieties, such as Bical, Cercial and Maria Gomes, are often used in the production of fresh and aromatic white wines. 

What differentiates Bairrada from other wines from the northern central region of Portugal is the Baga grape, the main red grape grown in the region. It is unique and characteristic of the region, giving Bairrada red wines a distinctive personality. Baga produces wines with a pronounced tannic structure, high acidity and intense aromas of dark fruits, such as black cherry and plum. This caste contributes to wines with great ageing potential. 

The soil is another asset that directly influences the characteristics of Bairrada wines. The soil is predominantly calcareous and clayey, which contributes to the minerality and structure of the wines. Besides, the region´s maritime-Atlantic climate, with the influence of the Atlantic Ocean, brings a natural freshness and acidity to the wines. 

But Bairrada is known for the production of excellent sparkling wines and this is where it all started. These sparkling wines are still made in the traditional way similar to the production of Champagne in France, with a second fermentation in the bottle. Bairrada sparkling wines have a fine effervescence, a balanced acidity and a complex aromatic profile. 

Above all, the Bairrada region has a strong gastronomic tradition that relates to its wines, and for me this is the key to Bairrada´s success. Roast suckling pig à Bairrada is an iconic dish of the region, and the local wines harmonise perfectly with this culinary speciality. The combination of Bairrada wines with the rich local gastronomy is a unique experience and valued by many wine lovers like me. 

These combined elements give Bairrada wines a unique identity. Bairrada red wines, with the remarkable presence of the Baga grape variety, and the quality sparkling wines are the main highlights of the region. The search for a balance between tradition and innovation, combined with the quality of the wines, has boosted Bairrada as one of the most appreciated wine regions in Portugal. 

In summary, the history of Bairrada wine is marked by centuries of winegrowing tradition, evolution and adaptation. The region has been able to preserve its viticultural heritage, producing quality red, sparkling and white wines that reflect the richness of its soil and the commitment of local producers. 


Author: Paulo Lopes